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It is very important to buy a precious stone during daylight, on a fine weather day and with a northly exposure. It is under these conditions that the true colour of the stone will appear. In the absence of these conditions, it will be preferable to use a lamp which has a reproducing daylight bulb. In all good jewellery shop, you will be able to find these lamps which are equipped with special bulbs and which are useful for grading diamonds. A neon lighting is not recommended. A certificate will have to be required for diamond purchase higher than 0.50 carat. This certificate will have to be made by an international laboratory of gemology. You will find a list of these laboratories in the item entitled: certificate. Always check the diamond characteristics. Indeed, if a jeweller proposes to you a 1.00 carat round diamond which does not have a certificate, if he says to you that this diamond is classified F (colour) and VS1 (clarity). This diamond would cost approximately US$ 10,920 (retailer price). But, if its clarity is really VS2, the price falls to US$ 10,010; 8% less (US$ 910), a rather significant price difference! Importance of the certificate: with the true identity card of the diamond, you will know precisely the diamond that you are buying. But be careful, a certificate is not a guarantee of quality, indeed, a diamond can have a certificate but can be of bad quality (bad clarity, colour, proportions, polish, symmetry, fluorescence, etc...). Importance of knowing « decipher » a certificate and read it entirely. A small sentence on the certificate, like « Clarity enhanced » or « Color enhanced », will have to make you react: you are in the presence of a diamond whose clarity or colour was modified artificially. The price of these diamonds very strongly falls (-60 to -80%). If you know 4 C's (carat-weight, color, clarity, cut) you wil know the diamond price in the trade. For that you can go and click to a item « diamond prices » to compare the jewellery price and the price posted in our item, if you notice a great difference between the two prices, beware!
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There are not only the 4 principal diamond criteria (carat-weight, colour, clarity, cut) which are important for a diamond purchase. Indeed, its proportions, its fluorescence, its finish are other criteria very important. A diamond of very good clarity and very good colour, but which has a very strong fluorescence or a poor proportion sees its price strongly falling: Choose a None or Slight diamond fluorescence, avoid Strong or Very strong grades. Choose a Excellent, Very Good or Good diamond proportions. Choose a Excellent, Very Good or Good diamond polish, avoid Medium or Poor finish grades. Eternal colorless diamonds are most known to public, but do you know that there are diamonds in all the colours: blue, red, pink, green, yellow, black, champagne, cognac, etc... Depending on colours some are less expensive compare to the same white diamonds. On the others hands some colours are even more expensive than colorless diamonds (red, pink, blue, green and certain intensities of yellows). All this is only one question of mode and personal taste. There is a price list of polished diamonds (0.01 carat to 5.99 carats) available on subscription for the professionals, the name is « Rapaport Diamond Report ». This is not a selling list. This list is very often used by the professional in their transactions. If you want to know some more about Rapaport Diamond Report, you can click here: how to calculate diamond prices.
Martin Rapaport learned the business of rough diamonds in Antwerp (Belgium), he is a graduate GIA. He began his career in the industry as a broker of rough and polished diamond in New York in 1975. He established, in 1978, the Rapaport Diamond Price List (called by the professionals Rap or the List), which has become the primary source of diamond price and market information for the diamond trade. Over the years, this price lists became Rapaport Diamond Report and it is in 1982 that he established RapNet, an online interactive diamond trading market, that has been expanded to include Diamonds.net. Martin Rapaport is a member of World Diamond Council and he played an important part in Kimberley Process: certification for the international trade in rough diamonds. He is more powerful than De Beers yet he handles this power without any sign of corruption.
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How to calculate diamond prices: the prices indicated on these lists are expressed per carat, in hundredth of American dollar ($100's per carat). On the first line of the list, one finds the weight, the date and the cut. On the second line, one finds the clarity grade from IF (Internally Flawless) to I3. In the first column, one finds the colour grade from D to M. Therefore all you have to do is to move horizontally and vertically according to the colour and the clarity to know its price in dollar per carat. Example: the diamond price for a brilliant of 1.00 carat, G-VVS2 is 190 in our list. Its price would be thus 1.00 carat x 190 x 100 = US$ 19,000. the diamond price for a brilliant of 1.36 carat, E-VS2 is 215 in our list. Its price would be thus 1.36 carat x 215 x 100 = US$ 29,240. We repeat that the prices are not real. It is only an example. If you wish to know the diamond prices in the retail trade, you can click on this link: diamond prices.
A round brilliant diamond has between 57 and 58 facets (depending on whether the culet was polished into a facet or closed to a point): table: 1 facet. For the crown: 8 bezels, 8 stars and 16 upper girdle facets. For the pavilion: 8 pavilions and 16 lower girdle facets. Culet: 1 or 0 facet (if no culet facet). Also, in higher quality goods the girdle is frequently faceted, but these facets are not counted in the total.
The « ideal » cut: It is a very vast subject, which divides the professionals still today. To obtain the maximum of brightness, fire, « life », a diamond must be cut according to certain dimensions and proportions. The diamond cutters must carefully consider the optical properties of each diamond to determine its optimal size. Brilliance of a diamond following the proportions of its cut: Ideal cut: light is correctly reflected. Diamond has a beautiful brilliance and « fire ». Too shallow: light is lost out the sides causing the diamond to lose brilliance. Too deep: light escapes out the bottom causing the diamond to appear dark and dull.
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To obtain an ideal cut, the 3 principal elements, are: 1) Total depth %: The height of the stone is divided by the diameter in rounds or by the width in all other shapes. Say the stone measures 6.52 - 6.56mm x 3.92mm, the total depth is 3.92mm ÷ 6.54mm = 59.93%. Ideal round diamonds should have a depth of 59%-62.5%. 2) Table percentage (%): Only round diamonds have a standard for table size. In round diamonds for a diamond to be recognized as an ideal cut the table must be relatively small. It must fall between 53% and 57%. 3) Girdle thickness: The best girdle range for a diamond to fit in the ideal cut category for rounds is anywhere between « Thin » and « Slightly Thick ». The girdle could be Thin, Medium, Slightly thick or any combination of the three, such as « medium to slightly thick ». The various graduations thickness of the rondist are: Extremely thin, Very thin, Thin, Medium, Slightly thick, Thick, Very thick and Extremely thick.
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